Full grain leather has more collagen protein components with a thickness of between 0.9 and 1.4mm and the best profile for pigments and finishes making shoes that fit like gloves, that are hard wearing and that have a beautiful and natural finish. For some of our pieces we use suede split leather that gives the shoe a more delicate edge, even more so than using nubuk would.
At JMVC we decided not to use exclusive and expensive leathers such as cordobán, French box calf or exotic leathers. We do not believe that these leathers substantially improve the quality of our pieces with regard to their finish, comfort and durability; they are more about exclusivity. Also, these leathers come from an animal market sector that we do not want to be associated with. Our suppliers guarantee that the leather we use comes from animals reared for the food industry with traceability and total transparency. Our exotic material therefore only ever comes from cattle.
OUR MANUFACTURING METHODS
We have three types of manufacturing processes, two very elaborate ones and a third that is not so elaborate but that still adheres to a very high standard with regards to comfort and durability:
- Goodyear stitching:
- the most complex and costly technique because it requires a very high level of craftsmanship and experience, a huge amount of precision and takes four times as long to make compared with a product that is glued together. It means that the piece is sewn on the inside (the leather is sewn to the welt) and later the welt is sewn to the sole on the outside using a special machine.
- Blake Stitching:
- Like the Goodyear stitch, this complex process requires a high level of craftsmanship. The double stitch (inside and outside) adds another entire stage to the production process that involves taking it off the last in order to stitch the inside and then putting it back on the last to carry on sewing on the outside. Watch our videos to see the whole process explained. This type of stitch is very time consuming but produces a much more flexible shoe, an effect that the Goodyear stitch is unable to replicate. Even with the added comfort, the shoe is still as hardwearing as the ones made using the Goodyear Stitch. This is the technique that we mainly use.
- Lastly we use the gluing method. We design an outsole (the unit made up of the sole and heel), that fits every last perfectly and stick it directly onto the shoe. There is no sewing and neither the soles, or the heels need finishing like they do in the other processes. This technique takes 40% less time than the sewing method, the craftsperson does not need to be as highly skilled and the time spent on finishes is also much less. The shoes are, as a result more economical. A last that is stuck on is aesthetically more pleasing (it does not need to have space on the inside for sewing). These pieces have been prefabricated by an industrial machine and do not require space for sewing on the outside. We make the Slippers using this method for increased flexibility, a finer aesthetic and to make them as light as possible. This method does not mean that these are lower quality pieces. On the contrary, the process requires a certain level of technical knowledge and the skills to carry it out well. You cannot guarantee it will have the same durability as a piece that has been sewn, but that does not, in any way, mean it is lower in quality.
- Gentleman’s Classic last: The last has a wide sole and a rounded front end. It is perfect as a formal work shoe that is worn on a daily basis. From an aesthetic point of view it is best worn with serious outfits or when the dress code is a little more demanding but still classic (galas, brand events) and the shoe, although elegant, does not need to be the main focus of the outfit.
- Gentleman’s JC last: A variant on the classic last, with a slightly longer and less rounded front end. It has the same profile but a different aesthetic.
- Gentleman’s Smart last: A narrower last with a straighter finish on the front end and a more aggressive side profile. This sacrifices a modicum of comfort (at least for wider feet) for style. It is the perfect last for skinny trousers because it gives a pleasing continuity to the leg and adds a good dash of style to any outfit. This last cannot be hidden by the outfit you are wearing. For this reason we decided to make them with prints and a bold array of colors.
- Gentleman’s Casual last: This is the most versatile last in the collection. It has a really comfortable sole and soft side contours. It is not as round as the classic last but very comfortable. This last follows on perfectly from the classic version as a shoe for daily wear, but suits a more casual outfit, such as jeans or chinos. This type of shoe is often made from buff leather (nubuck) and comes in marine blue, chocolate brown, etc.
- Gentlemen’s Slipper last: This last is designed exclusively for the slippers range. It has a very comfortable sole even though the front end is not that rounded, a characteristic that gives it a very elegant appearance. It is the perfect last for our non-classic slipper and comes in bold, fun and fresh designs.
- Women’s VdC1 last: A last with a wide sole and a rounded front end. We use this last for our country boots, horse riding boots and every piece that has a connection with our town. It is part of our shoemaking heritage, versatile and comfortable.
- Women’s VdC2 last: This is our cowboy boot last, designed and developed by us. It has different heel heights and a tapered tip but not in the style of a court shoe. It is very comfortable for daily wear, exudes elegance and can be adapted to any outfit.
- Women’s VdC3 last: This is our fancy shoe last for festivals, galas and balls. With a very tapered point and front piece and a heel that comes in different heights of up to 7cm. We do not know how to make shoes with a higher heel. This is not our area of expertise.
- Women’s VdC4 last: This is a model for the new season. Straight at the end with a duckbill finish. This last is very versatile and can be used for our summer sandals or winter boots. It is very comfortable and gives support and height, although the heel is never higher than 7cm.
- Women’s SO last: This is a variant on our cowboy last with a tapered end but a straight finish, not a round one. We use this for our more fashionable pieces, with striated rubber monobloc outsoles and bolder combinations.
You can find out more and stay up to date by checking out our blog, YouTube channel and newsletters. You can meet the team of craftspeople at the factory, see how we assemble our pieces, the techniques used in every process, learn how to look after your shoes and find out about the leather we use, our corporate social responsibility projects, social action programs, sustainability and the company’s commitment to its community. JMVC does not only guarantee a high quality product but does so with a firm commitment to all parties involved in the process, from the supplier to the final client and of course, to the environment.